Ms Clara Smartest in Morocco

In 1917, during the First World War, the writer Edith Wharton was invited to visit Morocco by the French Governor of the then French protectorate. She travelled around the country for a month, witnessing traditional events, admiring historical landmarks and meeting women who were part of the Vizier’s harem. Back home, she wrote a book, which was intended to be the first tour guide book of the country. It is a Westerner’s view of what was then considered the “Near East” (meaning North Africa). Edith Wharton fiercely and openly defended French governance and implicitly criticized some Arab practices. For example, she described the women of the Vizier’s harem as prisoners and unhappy and the ceremonies she witnessed were deemed primitive.

After reading the book, Ms Clara Smartest decided to travel to Morocco to get to know the country a century later. What she found was a surprising country, rooted in its traditions and accepting modernity on its own terms.


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Keyword: DESERT | Mint Tea

Tea is drunk everywhere in the world and there are many cultural ceremonies related to it in different countries, like the Traditional Japanese Tea Ceremony in Japan, the Afternoon Tea in England, and the Maghrebi Mint Tea, in North Africa. All of these ceremonies aim to welcome guests and be a moment of relaxation and socialization with friends and family.

The Maghrebi Mint Tea is drunk in cities and also in the desert (everywhere, basically). Like all teas, it is made by pouring boiled water on tea leaves. More precisely, they are green gunpowder loose tea leaves (a type of green tea). Mint leaves are also added, especially spearmint, and a lot of sugar too. When serving, the tea is poured as high as possible and the remaining stays brewing in the pot. Each new cup is stronger than the previous one and each person should drink three cups, according to tradition.

It’s not clear how this tradition came to be, but clearly it originated from international trading as the tea leaves come from China. North Africans adopted this Chinese drink and made it their own, with some changes. Now, the Maghrebi mint tea is so deeply rooted in their culture that it seems it has always been part of it. Interestingly, this mint tea is prepared by men and men alone (at least, according to tradition). It is usual to see men at cafe tables drinking tea with their friends or even making business. In the desert, they make the tea inside the tents at the end of the day to relax and socialize.

As all teas, it takes a lot of practice to get it perfect. Furthermore, each tea can be unique as other ingredients can be added. However, everyone can do it at home provided that they have the green gunpowder leaves and the mint leaves.